A 30-Mile Rafting Trip Through Alaska’s Tongass National Forest

A 30-Mile Rafting Trip Through Alaska’s Tongass National Forest


At the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, with travel restrictions in spot all over the world, we launched a new sequence — The Earth As a result of a Lens — in which photojournalists help transport you, just about, to some of our planet’s most wonderful and intriguing destinations. This 7 days, Christopher Miller shares a assortment of illustrations or photos from Southeast Alaska.


With my eyes closed, the scent of the forest is sharpened by the lack of visible distraction. I breathe in the musk of a stand of large red cedar trees, which dominate the landscape, as the seemingly endless forest stretches to the mountain-lined horizon.

I grew up exploring the fringes of the Tongass Countrywide Forest, which sits just outdoors my backdoor in Juneau and stretches for hundreds of miles together the coastline of the Gulf of Alaska and the North Pacific Ocean. Encompassing 16.7 million acres of land, the Tongass is both of those the biggest countrywide forest in The usa and the world’s greatest intact temperate rainforest. My earliest memories are instilled with its sights, sounds and smells.

In this article on Prince of Wales Island, some 200 miles south of Juneau, I’m immersed in the very same temperate rainforest that I came to know as a little one. It feels both alien and common. I let the fragrant cedar smell wash above me for a couple of extra moments just before opening my eyes and shouldering my pack farther into the forest.

It is late April 2019, and my touring companion, Bjorn Dihle, and I are on a four-working day, 30-mile excursion by means of the coronary heart of Prince of Wales Island along the Honker Divide Canoe Route, the island’s longest path. We have forgone the canoes and opted for packrafts thanks to their sizing and excess weight they are simpler to schlep over logs and across the numerous quick portages.

Mainly because of the sluggish snow melt, our development is slow. We weave through lots of shallow rocky sections, inevitably dragging, bouncing and scooching above rocks. At some point we trudge through ice-cold drinking water that covers our ankles and calves. The travel is unhurried it lets us to take pleasure in our environment and take in the compact lakes, streams and rivers.

Southeast Alaska is inseparable from the Tongass National Forest they are a single and the similar, with the mountainous western edge of the North American continent offering way to the hundreds of islands that make up the Alexander Archipelago. The landscape is blanketed with Western hemlock, crimson and yellow cedars, and Sitka spruce.

On the 2nd night, we decide not to cram into a modest tent. Instead, we spoil ourselves with the roof and bunks of a forest company cabin on Honker Lake. The hearth is modest, but it’s additional than satisfactory to ward off the evening frost, and it infuses the air with the pungent and deluxe scent of cedar kindling and burning logs.

Sitting down just outdoors the cabin at dusk, we hear the namesake of the lake and cabin — the Honker, or Canada goose — on the wing, cackling by the hundred on their migration north.

Canada geese use the lakes and streams together the Honker Divide as stopovers to their summertime nesting and breeding grounds. Each day from dawn to dusk we see and hear them overhead as we paddle and hike, a harbinger of the prolonged times of summer months.

It is awe-inspiring to observe the birds, but the crick in my neck from gazing skyward attracts me back to earth and to the forest by itself.

Prince of Wales Island is a little bigger than the state of Delaware. It is home to numerous of the animal species found during the Tongass — moose, black and brown bears, Sitka black-tailed deer, beaver and porcupine. We’re also on the lookout for a subspecies of northern traveling squirrel and Alexander Archipelago wolf.

Sixty a long time ago, the forest that surrounds us was alive not with the appears of cackling geese but with the whir of chainsaws and all the machinations of modern day industrial logging. Visually, the most defining qualities of the island are the inescapable clearcuts that checkerboard the lowlands and mountainsides.

Logging nonetheless exists on the island, on a smaller sized and additional sustainable scale. But earlier this calendar year, the Trump Administration, with the encouragement of successive Alaska governors and congressional delegations, finalized designs to open up about 9 million acres of the Tongass National Forest to logging and highway design — by exempting the space from protections delivered by a Clinton-period coverage regarded as the roadless rule, which banned logging and street building in considerably of the countrywide forest system.

Supporters of the approach level to its financial possible. But the removing of the rule — which drew overwhelmingly detrimental reactions when it was opened for community comment — could irreparably transform the Honker Divide watershed and endanger the oldest dwelling things in the forest.

As Bjorn and I thrust as a result of thickets of devil’s club and trundle more than chest-high nurse logs, the trees seem to increase right before our eyes. The forest stands as a witness to the passage of time, and a nearby stream as a lifeline to the previous. The saplings at the confluence of the stream mark the existing, whilst the giant spruce and hemlock at its supply possible predate the European colonization of the Americas — so that the only human beings who could have witnessed the start of this stand of trees are the area’s Tlingit and Haida peoples.

These trees are among the the most historical in the wide expanse of the Tongass. It may well also be between the most imperiled by the abrogation of the 2001 roadless rule. We ponder their immeasurable value, and try to reckon with the considered of them as a very simple commodity, as a useful resource to be extracted.

Immediately after meandering through the stand of old advancement, we are forced to confront the timeline of our excursion — and the arrival, the following day, of our floatplane. We retreat into the shadows of the forest, heading back toward the current with every single move. Our boats are waiting around for us, and we established off to get to the close of the canoe route at the sleepy former logging town of Thorne Bay.



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